I just inherited a Walther PPK (380) from my father. The gun was acquired around 1975 and has been sitting dormant with my mother since his death in 1978. I have read some of the history and I know they were manufactured by many different companies over the years. This one is I believe an actual Walther made gun since it was purchased around 1975 and they were not made in the US until 1978. (Alabama) This is the best information I have come up with so far. I guess I would question y'all who have great gun knowledge for better information or just point me in the right direction.
I also want to know if this one if indeed was made by Walther suffers the same issues as later ones I have read such horrendous tales about? Also I wonder what are the chances it will do well with a HP bullet? Right now it seems like I will have to take whatever I can get my hands on, but I still want to know more about this gun.
Thanks for any help from this community. Sounds like you have one of the 'good' Walthers. I just tracked down the background on mine through these two forums.
You can check the manufacturing info of your gun by using the markings on the frame and slide. For example, here are the ones on mine: Made in W. Germany Imported by Interarms Eagle over N on slide (German manufacturing mark) Eagle over N, HI, Antler on frame (German manufacturing mark, HI=1978 Date concersion chart: A = 0 B = 1 C = 2 D = 3 E = 4 F = 5 G = 6 H = 7 I = 8 K = 9 A gun marked AE, for example, would have a born-on date of 2004; a gun with a GF stamp would have been made in 1965. (Note that the J is not used.) Proofmarks: As far as FMJ va JHP bullets, I have had some issues with JHPs hanging when chambering. With that being said, I might need to have the feed ramp polished on mine. Your really need to fire both types of ammo & not just a few rounds to see what is dependable in your gun. I only use FMJs in mine because I have never had a problem with them.
Also do not use +p ammo in your gun (too much power for it's construction, in my opinion). Hope this helps. Vincent, first thank you very much for the informative post and the links. I will be following up on them. Mib88 megamod google.
I do have Interarms stamped on the slide with what looks like a snowflake stamped in the middle. There is an Eagle on the grip, but I see nothing else. The serial number on the slide is 6 numbers. The serial numbe on the frame (grip area) is the same 6 numbers and has an S or a 5 stamped at the end of the numbers but looks like it is not contiguous with the serial.perhaps done after mfg? The other side of the slide has the Carl Walther Stamp and then Waffenfabrik and it looks like Um / Da (sorry, older eyes these days) It also says Modell PPK/S Cal. 9mm kurz (380 or course.) Thanks again.going to read more.
New member looking for some help in identification of a Walther PPK.32 auto. I've hit a ton of websites trying to identify this pistol, and while I've found a lot of info, I can't find a picture like it. Has some holster wear on slide, but other than that, pretty clean with original bluing. The serial number is 383199P, and is also stamped 'ac' under the serial on the slide, but not by the handle. There is nothing on the left or right side giving any information as to make, model, caliber, locations, anything. I've also taken it down and see no factory marking anywhere in the slide.
Walther Ppk S Problems
Does have nice looking checkered grips with the Walther flag at the top. I'm more curious about identification than value, but value would be nice also.
Story from Dad was that it was pre-war and has been in known possession of the family since the late 40's or early 50s. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Proof and Police Marks Model PP and PPK pistols are found with a variety of markings.
Some of these are merely factory serial numbers and proof marks indicating that the gun has functioned safely when fired with high pressure cartridges. In addition to the serial number and proof marks, Model PP and PPK will often be found with Nazi party abbreviations and insignia. Still others will be found with Army acceptance marks in the form of an eagle, Swastika, and Waffenamt numbers. The Waffenamt mark indicates that the gun has been accepted by the government inspector at the plant. The German GI usually referred to this ever present mark as the 'Pleitegeir' which means the 'Bankrupt Vulture.'
Crown over N is a German pre-war proof mark used before April 1, 1940. 'N' indicates that the gun has been proofed with 'nitro' or smokeless powder. Foun on early PP and PPK's.
In April of 1940 the Germans replaced the crown over N proof mark wiht the eagle over 'N'. PP and PPK's carried this proof mark after April 1, 1940. Post-war PP and PPK's carry the new eagle over N, indicating that the gun was proofed for nitro or smokeless powder.
Post-war PP and PPK's manufactured at Ulm by Walther for commercial sale carry the antler proof mark of the Ulm proof house. The year of the proof test is also indicated i.e. 68 means 1968. There are other proof houses, but these have different symbols such as a bear for Berlin, a horse for Hanover, an oak leaf for Kiel, and a shield for Munchen. The police acceptance mark is similar to the Army mark but the swastika was replaced by a cross and sub-letter C, F, L, or K. Eagle over WaA359 is the most common Waffenamt pistol stamp. It is found on all Walther PP's and PPK's accepted by the military.
Another version of the 'Pleitegeirer' shows the eagle over 359. The RZM insignia on the left is found engraved on the slides of early PPK's.
It is found on the left hand side of the slide between the Mod PPK and the slide serrations. The NSKKJ (Nationalsozialistisches Kraftfahrkorps) was the party branch entrusted with transport of party and military supplies. Their pistols were generally Model PP's wht NSKK insignia engraved on the left side of the slide but some PPK's have been noted with the NSKK insignia on the right side of the slide. SA der NSDAP Gruppe Mitte Nazi SA sections of the NSDAP were issued Model PP pistols in the prewar era.
These pistols were generally engraved on the front of teh grip strap as shown. The SA was divided into 28 areas so the Gruppe (group) name will vary. RFV 13311W PDM 1337 RRZ RJ DRP. Hello, Your pistol was manufactured in late 1945, close to war's end. It really should have wood grips to be correct, but that does not hurt the value, as alot of officers would change out grips. As the other members pointed out, Walther started using a code of AC on all their weapons. Mauser was byf & so on.
The late JP Sauer 38h pistols dropped everything, except for the cal marking. I suppose all of them were afraid of Neurenberg? Most of these late war pistols are mismatched, meaning the slide number did not match the frame. There are collectors seeking these late war pistols & your's being in such fine condition should fetch 12-15 hundred. Oh yes I forgot, on the spline of the magazine you should see a small W.
That signifies soft metal and will be only found on these late war pistols, PPKs included. Hope this helps ya?
Kind Regards Danny. Ok, I guess all these postings still leave me with questions. Sounds like there's still a discrepancy on when this pistol was made, late war or post war. Are serial numbers researchable. I've read some places that they aren't, but Danny seems quite specific about manufacture time. Another question is that this is referred to as mismatched, or pieced together pistol.
What does that mean? Slide and frame have matching serial number, but the frame does not have the 'ac' under the number. Where would this gun have been manufactured? Germany, France,????
Everyone seems to have their own opinion to pricing. I'll never sell, as this piece is a family hand me down, having been my grandfather's, father's, and now mine.so more curious for insurance purposes. Thanks again for the input. OK, sorry if we have you confused.
The parts of this pistol were made during the war, just before Germany surrendered. These parts were numbered and sitting in parts bins, ready to be assembled and test fired. At the end of the war the US forces took control of the factory. The GIs wanted souvenir pistols, so they slipped the workers a pack of cigarettes or a few candy bars, and the workers assembled them from the parts bins. No attention was paid to trying to grab the matching slide from a slide bin to make a matching pistol. The Germans knew it was wrong, but the GIs neither knew nor cared about matching parts, so they were just slapped together with random parts.
And this satisfied the GIs. None of these were factory inspected or test fired. So that's what you have, a GI souvenir from a defunct non-operating factory. They are of some small interest to knowledgable collectors, but have no military history, as they were never issued.
Their low prices reflect this diminished collectibility. These are often palmed off on novice buyers as military Walthers at inflated prices. Wonder that is a war trophy period. When the plant was captured, the GIs found crates of assembled P-38's and the PPs & PPKs.
The Army was in such deserpate need of weapons they did not care if they matched or not. They just wanted something to arm their men with and in a hurry. Your opinion is well recognized about the troops having getting some put together, however the pistol in question has both the frame & serial # matching which is odd for a late war unit. Thats why I gave the apprasial of the amount. Before the plant was captured all records of serial numbers were destroyed.
In reality the numbers were based on the PP in 1929 and the PPK in 1931. Most of the prewar numbers on both handguns were in the same proximity with numbers only a few thousand apart. However at the beginning of WW2 there was a bigger demand for the PP and thats when the numbers showed the difference of production for the PPK.
Remember the PP held one more round than the PPK also. Kind Regards Danny.
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Whether you choose Ruger, Glock, Smith & Wesson, Sig Sauer, Taurus or Kimber; Carrying a firearm for self-defense is a steep responsibility. And choosing a gun for concealed carry is an incredibly personal decision. While it can be tempting to go out and purchase the first gun you find on sale-especially in the excitement that follows getting a concealed carry permit-we highly recommend 'trying before you buy.' Online reviews can be helpful, but nothing can replace the real experience of handling and operating a firearm. Try different makes and models from manufacturers like Ruger and Glock until you find one that feels both comfortable and comforting in your hands. Remember, despite what the guy behind the counter at the gun shop tells you, the 'best' gun is the one you will have on you when you need it most!
I have a beautiful Interarms-built Walther PPk/s with a serial number S025XXX, and would like to know when it was manufactured. Does anyone have any ideas about the date? And while I have the opportunity, I would like to say: What on earth led S & W to believe that they could 'Improve' on a design as (pardon the pun) bulletproof as the Carl Walther PP, PPK, PPK/S?
A 'Walther', subject to a safety re-call? Never would have happened in the days of the real Walther's manufacture.
Years ago S & W made some good quality revolvers, and in the case of the old model 39 and 59, some decent semi-autos as well. My personal experience with S & W leads me to give the following advice. Don't bother with the S&W, buy a High-Point and bank the difference.
You will be much happier with the fit, finish, and accuracy, and for the money saved you can buy a lot of ammo with which to practice. But if you are determined to buy for bragging rights, any of the big name manufacturers will provide a product with better accuracy, quality, and reliability.
Michael T: There's no question that S&W-made PPK has been a huge disappointment for all fans of the model. Why they haven't gotten to the bottom of the problem(s) and repaired it once and for all, despite several consecutive years of returned guns and angry customers and flamed internet rants, is a mystery known only to those who live and work in Maine. On the other hand, not all S&W-made PPKs are paperweights. Mine hasn't missed a beat yet, and I've owned it and shot it regularly for three years running; I also use it for daily carry and trust my life to it and won't leave home without it. Thanks to all who have responded to my inquiry.
As for S&W screwing up a once beautiful design, all I can say is that there are always those who feel that they can improve on perfection. If S&W was at all interested in fixing their mistakes, all they would have to do is go back to the original drawings, and the processes of manufacture that Walther sold them when they bought the rights to manufacture, and build it the way Walther intended. Just recently I had the opportunity to shoot a S&W cobbled-up PPK. With the first gritty cycle of the slide, I cringed. The gun I fired is owned by a friend who takes meticulous care of his firearms.the gritty feeling wasn't from dirt, but rather from the high school shop class level of machining of the slide and frame. The pistol chambered & ejected reliably enough, but the accuracy at 7 yards was a total disappointment.
I have several PP variants in.32 ACP and.380, of French, German, and US manufacture. All are capable of very accurate delivery, except for the S&W. It might be psychological on my part that I can't shoot it as well as all the others.
![Walther ppk serial number search Walther ppk serial number search](/uploads/1/2/3/7/123742009/231640535.jpg)
I admit to a nagging doubt in the back of my mind that it may just blow up in my face. Click to expand.Totally agree with you on the European Walthers - they are in a class of their own. Also, agree on your statements about the S&W revolvers - time tested and classic.
They (S&W) have/had some good semi-autos - still do, but I can't agree on the early model 59s, I had one that almost made me swear off of semi(s). Only gun I ever had that was more undependable was an early model Sigma. It would have made a descent trot line sinker. Their model 39(s),.45(s) and even their Walthers have some good reports. In the Walther line, I personally prefer the older Walther PP in.32, to other models. The 8+1 (9 shot) capability makes a nice concealable package. I have one with the S on the end of the serial number.but it's a PPK/S.22 (134xxxS).
It was manufactured in 1978. Look on the right side of the gun for a 2 character alphabetic code next to the crown over N and the stag horn.assuming it was manufactured in Ulm. Mine is an HI which translates to 78 based on the code below: A=0 B=1 C=2 D=3 E=4 F=5 G=6 H=7 I=8 K=9 If it's one of the manufactured in the USA under license of Walther, the date code probably won't be there. In that case, the paper target is sometimes dated. Edit: Out of curiosity, how about everyone post back with their caliber and manufacture date? Click to expand.I've always wondered about my Interarms PPK/S, too. My serial is 00331xx.
No 'S' in front, either. Maybe the first 'number' is really the letter 'O'. If so, that would mean it's even older than the 'S' series and one poster said he bought his 'S' PPK/S new in the mid 70s. I bought mine used in 1994 and it's been a fantastic pistol. Still has the original very nice deep bluing and I've never had to replace anything on the pistol itself. Nate1778, I did start having some malfunctions with the very old magazines, which worked for a long time for me.
They were so bad that the feed lips and magazine catch cut-out were chewed up. I ordered some new Walther mags and everything was fine again. They were shiny metal (stainless?) and not blued like the ones that came with the PPK/S. All were flush bottomed, too. As for markings, on the left side of the slide is the Walther 'ribbon' and 'Made in the USA' right beneath it on the muzzle end. Then, a bit further back, it has from top to bottom. 'under license of' then 'Carl Walther Waffenfabrik Ulm/Do' and finally at the bottom, 'Modell PPK/S Cal.9mm kurz /.380ACP'.
On the right side of the slide it has, 'INTERARMS' and below it, 'Alexandria, Virginia'. The serial number is directly below the ejection port and the chamber has a 'VA' stamped right at the bottom. The letters are so close they almost overlap. Can anyone make sense of these markings as to what they mean and/or when it was manufactured? Did the Germans actually produce them in the states? If so, I'm wondering if I have one because mine seems to be pretty old. But, alas, my elegant PPK/S never sees carry duty anymore since I have two completely reliable Kel-Tec P3ATs which are MUCH smaller and thinner overall and WAY lighter.
Carries the exact same firepower with +1 mag extensions, too. A lot less cumbersome in the front pocket. Serials and dated test targets Gentlemen, If any of you have a dated test target or original dated purchase receipt, and would be willing to post that info and a serial number I will add it to my meager list. Mine is a weird one!! The serial number of my PPK/S is XXXXAAA and it's stamped Walther USA LLC, Springfield Mass.
There's no way to be sure, but I think it was made by Smith from left over Interarms parts or was a finished gun, but not stamped, when Interarms ended it's corporate lifetime. I think that Walther USA was a holding company set up by Smith to dispose of the left over Interarms inventory. If the serial number is tied to the Walther date code system, then it would have been made in 2000, which is plausible because I got it in 2001. I've had no problems with it over the years. IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER Although The High Road has attempted to provide accurate information on the forum, The High Road assumes no responsibility for the accuracy of the information.
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Whether you choose Ruger, Glock, Smith & Wesson, Sig Sauer, Taurus or Kimber; Carrying a firearm for self-defense is a steep responsibility. And choosing a gun for concealed carry is an incredibly personal decision. While it can be tempting to go out and purchase the first gun you find on sale-especially in the excitement that follows getting a concealed carry permit-we highly recommend 'trying before you buy.' Online reviews can be helpful, but nothing can replace the real experience of handling and operating a firearm. Try different makes and models from manufacturers like Ruger and Glock until you find one that feels both comfortable and comforting in your hands. Remember, despite what the guy behind the counter at the gun shop tells you, the 'best' gun is the one you will have on you when you need it most!